Quick answer: U-Haul rents open utility trailers (4×8, 5×8, and 6×12) for hauling furniture, appliances, and yard gear, plus enclosed cargo trailers (4×8, 5×8, 5×10, and 6×12) that lock and stay weatherproof for longer or more valuable loads. It also offers car trailers and tow dollies for moving a vehicle behind your truck. When you look at U-Haul trailer sizes and prices, in-town daily rental typically runs about $15 to $50+ per day, depending on the trailer size, whether it’s open or enclosed, and how far you’re going.
U-Haul Trailer Sizes and Prices at a Glance
The right trailer depends on how much you’re moving and whether your cargo needs protection from weather and theft. Here’s how the main U-Haul trailer sizes and prices compare.
| Trailer type & size | Approx. capacity | Best for | Approx. rental price* |
|---|---|---|---|
| Utility 4×8 (open) | ~1,600 lbs load, ~5×8 deck | A few pieces of furniture, mattresses, yard equipment, small dorm/studio load | ~$15–$20/day |
| Utility 5×8 (open) | ~1,700+ lbs load | Studio or partial 1-bedroom, appliances, mowers, furniture | ~$18–$25/day |
| Utility 6×12 (open) | ~2,500+ lbs load | Large furniture, 1-bedroom worth of open items, ATVs | ~$25–$35/day |
| Cargo 4×8 (enclosed) | ~250 cu ft | Small studio/dorm, boxes, electronics you want protected | ~$20–$25/day |
| Cargo 5×8 (enclosed) | ~300+ cu ft | Studio to small 1-bedroom apartment, weather-sensitive items | ~$25–$30/day |
| Cargo 5×10 (enclosed) | ~400+ cu ft | 1-bedroom apartment, longer hauls needing security | ~$28–$35/day |
| Cargo 6×12 (enclosed) | ~500+ cu ft | Large 1-bedroom to small 2-bedroom, valuable or long-distance loads | ~$30–$40+/day |
| Auto Transport (car trailer) | Full vehicle, loaded on ramps | Towing a car behind a moving truck | ~$50–$60/day |
| Tow Dolly | Front wheels of a car | Towing a front-wheel-drive car | ~$40–$55/day |
*Prices are approximate and vary by location, season, and whether the rental is in-town (round trip) or one-way (different drop-off city). One-way rentals are usually priced differently and can cost more. Always confirm the live quote at booking.
Open Utility vs. Enclosed Cargo Trailers
The first real decision isn’t size — it’s open vs. enclosed.
Open utility trailers have low walls and no roof. They’re cheaper, easier to load from any side, and great for bulky items like a couch, appliances, mowers, or a mattress. The trade-off: your cargo is exposed to rain, road grime, and prying eyes. They’re ideal for short, local hauls in good weather.
Enclosed cargo trailers are fully walled and roofed with lockable rear doors. They cost a little more but keep your belongings dry, secure, and out of sight — the better choice for boxes, electronics, longer trips, or overnight stops. Many enclosed models have a low deck and a ramp or low load height that makes rolling furniture in easier.
Expert tip: If your move involves any highway miles or an overnight stop, pay the small premium for an enclosed cargo trailer. A sudden rainstorm or a parking-lot theft can cost far more than the price difference.
How to Pick the Right Size (Don’t Overbuy)
Bigger isn’t automatically better with trailers. A larger trailer is heavier, harder to maneuver, and demands more from your vehicle’s tow rating and hitch.
Follow this process:
- Measure and photograph your load. Group everything you’re hauling and estimate the largest single item’s dimensions. A 4×8 fits a surprising amount; a 6×12 handles most of a one-bedroom.
- Match to the table above. Studios and dorms usually fit a 4×8 or 5×8; a full one-bedroom typically needs a 5×10 or 6×12.
- Leave a little margin, not a lot. Choose a size where your items fit snugly with a bit of room for padding — not a cavernous trailer you’ll only half-fill.
- Check your vehicle first. The biggest trailer your budget allows means nothing if your car can’t legally or safely tow it.
Expert tip: For most small moves, one right-sized trailer beats two trips in something too small. But renting a 6×12 to move a single dresser just makes the trailer harder to back up and tow — size to the load, not to your fear of a second trip.
Towing Requirements — Check These Before You Book
This is where renters get caught. U-Haul will not let you tow a trailer with a vehicle it doesn’t rate for the load, and larger trailers require a proper hitch setup. Before you reserve, verify:
- Vehicle tow rating. Check your owner’s manual or door-jamb sticker for the manufacturer’s maximum towing capacity, and make sure it exceeds the loaded trailer weight. Car trailers, especially, require a capable truck or large SUV.
- Hitch class and receiver. Smaller utility trailers often work with a Class I–II hitch; larger cargo and auto transports need a Class III/IV receiver.
- Ball size. Most U-Haul trailers use a 2-inch ball. Confirm you have the correct size — the wrong ball is a common day-of problem.
- Trailer wiring / lights. You need a functioning connector (typically 4-pin flat) so brake lights and turn signals work. U-Haul can often install wiring, but it’s not instant.
Expert tip: Enter your exact vehicle year, make, and model when you book. U-Haul’s system flags whether your vehicle can tow a given trailer — and if it can’t, you’ll find out before you show up, not at the counter.
Loading Tips for a Safe Tow
How you pack a trailer matters as much as what you pack.
- Heavy items low and forward. Place about 60% of the weight in the front half, over or ahead of the axle. Too much weight at the rear causes dangerous sway.
- Keep it balanced side to side. Distribute weight evenly left and right.
- Tie everything down. Use the trailer’s built-in anchor points and quality straps. Nothing should shift during braking or turns.
- Don’t exceed the rated load — and don’t stack so high that the trailer becomes top-heavy.
When a Trailer Beats a Truck
A trailer isn’t always the answer, but it wins in specific situations:
- Small or partial moves — a studio, dorm, or a handful of large items.
- You already have a capable tow vehicle, so you avoid a separate truck rental and its mileage fees.
- Local, short-distance moves where a quick round trip is easy.
- Budget matters — a utility trailer at $15–$20/day is far cheaper than a box truck.
For a whole-house move, long distance, or when you don’t own a suitable vehicle, a moving truck or full-service mover usually makes more sense.
FAQ
Can any car tow a U-Haul trailer?
No. U-Haul checks your specific vehicle against the trailer’s requirements. Small utility trailers work with many cars, but larger cargo and auto transports need SUVs or trucks with the right hitch and tow rating.
Do U-Haul trailers come with insurance?
U-Haul offers optional coverage (like Safetow) at checkout. Your own auto policy may or may not cover a rented trailer, so confirm before you decline.
Is a trailer cheaper than a moving truck?
For small local moves, usually yes — if you already own a capable tow vehicle. Once you factor in a truck rental’s daily rate plus mileage, a trailer can save real money.
What’s the difference between a car trailer and a tow dolly?
An auto transport (car trailer) carries the entire vehicle on ramps; a tow dolly lifts only the front wheels, leaving the rear wheels on the road — suitable mainly for front-wheel-drive cars.
Planning a Bigger Move?
If your move is larger than a trailer can handle, it’s worth comparing your options side by side. Get and compare quotes from full-service movers and truck-rental companies on movingexperts.com/ to find the most cost-effective way to move your entire home.
Related guides: How Much Does a Couch Weigh? · Where to Get Free Moving Boxes: 15 Proven Sources · How Much Does It Cost to Move? · PODS vs. Truck Rental: Which Is Cheaper for Your Move?
